Sneaker expert: The ‘trend’ is moving towards the non-trend

Interview

Amadeus Thüner is one of the most renowned sneaker experts in Germany, having been in the ‘game’ for almost 20 years. In conversation with FashionUnited, he gives a glimpse into upcoming trends, reveals his dream collaboration, and proves that “sneakerheads” don’t just have trainers in their wardrobes.

The colder season has arrived, and with it, a change in weather. Which trainer is your current number one for this period?

Anything full-grain leather, because it’s easier to clean. It doesn’t matter if it gets a bit dirty or wet. Plus, you can prepare it well, waterproof it, et cetera. If the puddles are a bit deeper, then high-tops are certainly a good idea.

A reliable choice in recent years has always been a ‘Jordan 1’ or ‘Nike Dunk High’. But actually, all the other brands have high-tops in their portfolio. Even New Balance, which is normally more focused on running, has a few.

And regardless of the weather?

The great thing is that we currently have models from all brands that you can do wonderful things with. Personally, I've been a big ‘Nike SB Dunk’ fan for decades. There's still a lot happening in the skateboarding division. Especially after the Olympics, there were many models designed for Paris. I'm also enthusiastic about the entire 990 series from New Balance, whether it's the 991, 992… I'm still a “Jordan” wearer. Even if that's become a bit boring for many people, nothing beats a classic.

Is there a trainer that bores you?

I saw the Adidas Samba a lot in my youth, and of course recently as well. Also, the Adidas Gazelle, the Handball Spezial, and all the corduroy silhouettes from Adidas – it doesn’t make the shoe bad, but it's something I've seen enough of now. I'm looking forward to seeing something different again.

What would that be at Adidas?

Well, Adidas obviously has a large and broad heritage in all kinds of sports. Accordingly, there's definitely something slumbering in the archive that would be cool to see again. It's good that they had this run with the corduroy silhouettes, but I've simply seen enough of them.

Adidas could play up everything around ZX again. It would be nice if that were picked up more strongly again. Honestly, I was also a bit surprised why they didn't do that during the European Football Championship–the focus there was more on the Samba. Otherwise, Adidas has many, many beautiful things. Now they're bringing back a bit of basketball heritage.

What trends are you currently seeing in the trainer world overall?

The trend is no trend, and that's actually pretty cool. By that, I don't mean to say that certain models in collaborations can't have a very short momentum and hype, but we don't just have to wear Swoosh, Adidas Three Stripes, or just New Balance.

Anything goes, and we can wear anything. Every brand puts in more or less effort. You can find models, collaborations, and exciting colourways. Whether you're running around today with the big Nike, Adidas, Puma, New Balance, or even Skechers, or you pick something from Hookah, Salomon, Diadora, Saucony, or other brands – anything goes. This plays into the hands of individualism. That's actually what has distinguished sneaker culture: wearing something that not everyone wears.

In the streetwear scene, there's been a shift in which shoes other than trainers have become more popular. How do you assess this development?

Particularly in Germany, there always has to be some kind of counter-movement. It's negatively connoted, which I find a real shame. You can have a trainer, a loafer, or a striking boot in your wardrobe, whatever you fancy, and you don't necessarily have to distance yourself from anything because of it.

I have Clarks Wallabees myself, and also boots for when it really snows. Does that make me less of a sneakerhead, or is someone who wears loafers automatically a sneakerhead if they buy a pair of trainers?

Is trainer saturation the reason?

The trainer was of course very omnipresent for a long time, which is why people decided to wear something different for various reasons. Timberland was very popular again last winter with their boots. They always used to be, but for the new generation that's now starting to engage with fashion, it's fresh and new. We've seen it before, and that's okay. It shows what kind of brands Timberland or Clarks are, brands that can inspire people again and again.

How do the generations differ?

They are now being styled differently. The way loafers are currently worn is different from how it was intended. The original casual shoe already found its way to a hip-hop influenced clientele in the 90s, which today allows the shoe to be combined more with the streetwear category. Just like the trainer was originally for the gym floor and is worn on the street today.

The trend for summery ‘Saint Tropez’ chic has also contributed to the fact that the Gucci loafer doesn’t always have to be paired with linen trousers.

Which trainer brands are your insider tip?

There are brands that still have quite a large scale but aren't as well-known due to their own heritage. Mizuno is huge in Asia. It feels like everyone wears them there, and they're represented in sports like volleyball and table tennis. They're not so well-known in Germany yet. But I'm definitely a fan.

Saucony is making moves that New Balance made a few years ago. They're focusing on select partners with niche followings instead of the biggest collaborators. That works in a very organic way.

Vans isn't a small brand either, but with the mission of going "back to the roots", they've done themselves a big favour. Just not something I would necessarily wear in autumn or winter.

Otherwise, it's really exciting to see what's happening at Merrell, a brand that isn't huge yet. Brands like Flowers for Society, which aren't mainstream either, have also built a good community. They're pushing and doing a lot at the moment. A great addition!

Which trainer collab blew you away this year?

Patta and Nike are always a safe bet. Especially the fact that they're bringing a shoe back after 15 years for [Patta’s] 20th anniversary. It's nothing new, but many people couldn't get their hands on the model back then, and were able to experience it now.

I also liked what A Ma Maniére did with Nike's Jordan brand, as well as the collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore (ALD). Many people find it boring because it's what they've done before, but “never change a winning team”. Otherwise, Nike SB has done a lot of exciting things, like the model in honour of the legendary graffiti writer Futura 2000.

Which collaboration do you dream of?

Palace and Nike SB. But there's a rumour that as long as Nike works with Supreme, Palace won't. So we'll probably have to wait a bit longer.

Are collaborations even special anymore?

The frequency has increased, so we're seeing a lot of collabs, but that’s also because they work. I always say: one plus one equals three, then it's a good collab. What I mean by that is if you bring the two respective target groups together, create something new, and if it's something creative that happens on an equal footing, then that's great.

That's where the wheat is separated from the chaff. If it's just two logos slapped together, it's not exciting. Only storytelling can charge a product with emotions and connect someone to the product or the respective brand.

Which story convinced you emotionally?

James Whitner, the man behind A Ma Maniére, delivered a good story and gave insights into Black Culture, including Black Female Culture. I'm neither a Person of Colour nor a woman, but I discover through the story he tells me. He focuses on Chicago. Black Culture might look very different elsewhere, but it's still really exciting to learn more about it and discover such a story. That's what it should be about, showing each other things.

Where do you go hunting for new models?

Germany in particular has many very good stores, and even across Europe. We don't have to hide in international comparisons. I have love for them all.

What role do sustainable trainer brands play?

I have the impression that the Covid period shifted the focus again. It didn't replace sustainability, but there were simply other problems. That shouldn't distract from the fact that sustainability is a very important factor. We in the fashion industry – whether trainers or other areas – are simply among the most unsustainable consumers of all. A lot needs to change in the entire fashion industry, from the brand to the consumer.

In the trainer sector, there are of course many efforts and moments where things have worked out quite well or at least have been a starting point. However, I couldn't name a brand right now that I was so convinced of and believe could be interesting again in the future. A lot of it is just project-based, and that's good, but beyond that, at least for me, what should perhaps happen hasn't happened yet.

Some brands, however, put the topic completely at the centre…

Of course, there are brands that are very focused on this sustainability aspect, but I personally lack access to them. Also, the lack of longevity plays a role for many. The materials used usually don't allow the shoe to function for a certain period of time. Of course, a Nike shoe also has problems with adhesives and other materials after 20 years. Nevertheless, for me, there is currently no good alternative and no brand that is ‘top-notch’.

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