Songzio, the Korean designer label, evolves into a fashion conglomerate

In just five years, the South Korean brand Songzio has undergone a radical transformation. The once niche men’s label, which celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2023, has metamorphosed into a true fashion powerhouse. It has grown from a small team of employees to 285 today, with 200 dedicated to its 75 retail locations. It currently boasts a revenue of $78 million and is aiming for $90 million in 2024, marking another acceleration with the opening of flagship stores in Seoul and Paris, as well as the debut of its first women’s line.

The turning point occurred in 2017 when Jay Song, the son of founder Song Zio, who still presides over the house, took over the reins of the company and its creative direction. The brand, originally founded in Seoul in 1993, made its move to Paris in the early 2000s, showcasing at Men’s Fashion Week from 2006 to 2017. Song Zio, who is also an accomplished artist, was one of the first Korean designers to focus on menswear at a time when South Korea was rather conservative and closed to such creative and avant-garde fashion. His small boutique in Seoul primarily focused on bespoke and special pieces for artists.

After growing up in this bohemian and artistic environment with his creative parents, 29-year-old Jay Song initially pursued studies in mathematics and art history at Columbia University in New York. However, upon returning to South Korea, he decided to revitalize the Songzio label, which was struggling to expand commercially and appeal to the new generation of consumers. Initially supported by a financial partner, he took full control of the company after two years.

“It took us five years to truly develop the brand, not only from a creative standpoint but also in terms of organization, offerings, and distribution,” explained Jay Song during a meeting in Paris at the Men’s Fashion Week, which the brand rejoined, being featured in the presentation calendar since June 2022. “This period allowed us to expand the Songzio universe and solidify the brand in South Korea, our domestic market, where 95% of our sales are currently generated through our network of 75 direct retail locations, with around 40 in Seoul,” he continued.

The brand manages all its boutiques directly. Internationally, Songzio boasts around 15 retail partners, including Harvey Nichols in London, H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles, the Hypebeast website, and Printemps in Paris, where it established a pop-up store in December that received a warm reception and was extended until mid-February. Regarding the brand’s production, 90% is carried out in South Korea, with the remainder in China and Vietnam for the more commercial lines.

In addition to the main Songzio collection, which offers avant-garde elegance with oriental inspirations, the house has developed several lines. In 2018, it introduced Songzio Homme, a contemporary line that is slightly more accessible, available in around 20 stores in Korea. In 2019, Zzero Songzio, a unisex sporty casual-street line, joined the market. Featuring a small panther logo, it is also targeted at children and is sold through approximately 20 stores and dedicated corners.

As for the formal men’s suit line Zio Songzio, which had been licensed for 20 years, it was internalized in 2022. Additionally, an essentials range for men and women, offering more affordability, was developed for e-commerce. Finally, Jay Song plans to launch a women’s ready-to-wear collection for Spring/Summer 2025. “In June, we will unveil about 20 looks. It will epitomize elegance and sophistication, exuding femininity. We intend to open around 10 boutiques exclusively dedicated to this line, allowing us to further express the Songzio universe,” he revealed.

Among its upcoming significant projects, the Korean brand is also focusing on opening two major stores. The first flagship, spanning 1,000 square meters, will open in April in the luxury district of Gangnam in Dosan Park, Seoul. Spanning five levels, it will be centered around the main Songzio line, its universe, and inspiration, with space dedicated to artist exhibitions. The second will be inaugurated in Paris in the second half of the year at 10 rue Charlot in the Marais, taking over a 159-square-metre space spread over two levels.