Stone Island is marking 42 years in business in 2024 as it kicks off a new phase.
Signaling this new course, the Italian brand, controlled by the Moncler Group, on Friday held an event in Milan during Men’s Fashion Week for the first time. It was not a fashion show as expected, but a presentation of the brand’s garments worn by models standing on three levels of metallic scaffolding.
Pieces were presented in multiples, telegraphing a message of authority. A cyber-punk electronic soundtrack and red headlamps and strobes pierced the dark industrial space, which left some guests a bit discombobulated. Everyone was puzzled by a technical glitch with a black curtain which at one point dropped over the installation, leaving some wondering if the spectacle was over.
New CEO Robert Triefus clearly wanted to make a statement in delivering the brand’s strategy and mantra, which sees the Stone Island community members following their own “compass inside” — a reference to the signature logo, to an obsession with research and development and independence of mind.
The models never left the scaffolding and the darkness prevented guests from seeing the garments up close, which was a pity because the experimentation behind the clothes is of the highest level and distinguishes the brand. Surely re-sees will fix this, and as this was conceived as a one-off event, it was likely meant to leave a mark on the industry rather than adhere to the general concept of a presentation.
From the brand’s notes, it was explained that the optical effect on a hooded down jacket was one of liquid glass. This was achieved from two layers of organza with a nylon base, nanotechnology employed to infuse aluminum in the polyester organza, so that the metal was attracted into the yarn.
A light jacket fastened with snaps and two bombers were made from Stone Island’s iridescent nylon metal fabric using trademarked Econyl regenerated yarns. One of the bombers had a black tape industrial zip, telegraphing this season’s inspiration of astronaut uniforms. There was also a military feel to some of the looks, such as the monochromatic pea coat and single-breasted jacket in wool and cashmere.
An archival parka from the fall 1999/2000 collection, the first ever Stone Island collection to feature metal, was revisited entirely in stainless steel mesh applied to a black nylon base. The metallic material, subject to oxidation over time, loses its shine, with creases and breaks that make each jacket unique.
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