This summer may have pitted the “brats” against the “demure” girls in a tug-of-war for ultimate social media virality, but formalwear designers are clearly rooting for the latter camp and have decided on dressing them for spring 2025.
In daywear, the “demure” girl aesthetic often translates to minimalism. Come evening, however, it’s about being, dare we say — “very mindful” — of the sense of occasion. After all, charity functions, weddings and galas are among the last few places where code-abiding attire still matters. This season catered to that with sophisticated volumes, pearlescent colors and garden florals and ruffles, puff sleeves and bows galore.
Among the newsworthy tidbits: Naeem Khan’s special-edition capsule for the “Wicked” film premiere and Markarian’s second Larroudé shoe collaboration.
See below for these and more highlights from the spring 2025 formal wear market.
-
All-aboard the Christina O at Badgley Mischka Spring 2025
Image Credit: Courtesy of Badgley Mischka The Greek restaurant Periyali was a perfect backdrop to Mark Badgley and James Mischka’s resort-driven collection hinged on sunny optimism.
The look: Studio 54 diva- think Bianca Jagger or Angelica Houston- meets a mod Jackie O on holiday in the Mediterranean.
Quote of Note: “We imagined ourselves back in the 1970s on Aristotle Onassis’ yacht, the Christina O, and we were thinking about all of the parties they had, going through the whole day into evening. Everything was so glamorous and nobody lifted a finger,” Badgley said, to which Mischka added: “Some of the best dressed women in the world at that time walked the decks of the Christina.”
Standout Pieces: A knife-pleated palazzo jumpsuit in marigold floral print with strung floral detail; a pearlescent beaded tie-waist smoking jacket and white fluted hem cocktail; a khaki cotton and lace sundress; a metallic off-the-shoulder trapeze top with three-dimensional flowers and matching jacquard HotPants; a coral tulle single shoulder gown; scuba dresses with petal cutouts.
The Takeaway: With the upcoming presidential election, the designers took a surprising break from dressing the campaign trail to let loose with nonchalant dresses and more separates, which worked.
-
Markarian’s Spring 2025 Collection Is Infused With ‘80s Nostalgia
Image Credit: Courtesy of Markarian Designer Alexandra O’Neill brought a youthful feel to her collection of fresh daywear and intricately beaded eveningwear.
The Look: The collection showed her strength in meticulous beading across a range of core silhouettes and new styles. She also debuted her second collaboration with shoe label Larroudé.
Quote of note: “Spring is always a little sweet spot for us,” said O’Neill. “I was thinking a lot about my childhood for the last couple of months. My brother just had his second baby, so just thinking about having a young family and what our childhood was like. We used to go to my grandparents’ every summer and just run wild in their backyard. My sister and I would run around in cute matching outfits as little sisters do, so I kind of did an updated take on that — on that matchy-matchy, ‘80s sense of nostalgia.”
Standout pieces: A yellow beaded gingham style set, a feminine white dress with intricate floral bead details and playful denim pieces.
Takeaway: O’Neill shows her understanding of a classic feminine aesthetic and how to update her core design codes with eye-catching beadwork and playful touches.
-
Pamella Roland Leans into Parisian Chic for Spring 2025
Image Credit: Courtesy of Pamella Roland Pamella Roland brought a slice of Paris to New York City for a sunset presentation underneath the crystal chandeliers at the Rainbow Room.
The Look: Sprite ’50 postwar optimism with a wallop of Old-Hollywood glam.
Quote of Note: “I go to Paris at least twice a year and I’ll be going back for market right after the show,” said Roland. Pointing out spring is her favorite season in the capital, she continued: “Think of all the flowers, all of the pastels. The first look, she’s like a walking flower…We have some faux leather too that’s a little more edgy, but Paris is a little edgy.”
Standout Pieces: A lavender strapless mini with sculpted petal appliqué; a black Le-smoking tuxedo with crystal lapels and caped fitted dress with pink satin bow trim; a skinny-leg faux-leather jumpsuit; a yellow bell-shaped tea dress and powder blue flared suit with lyric embroidery; draped floral chine gowns; a blush taffeta mermaid with ostrich feather tail.
The Takeaway: Roland offered a full day-to-evening wardrobe for “Emily in Paris” viewers who relish in French-girl archetypes. One of those being all-black, which had a strong impact and felt somewhat new for her.
-
Entering the Enchanted Garden at Nardos Spring 2025
Image Credit: Courtesy of Nardos Nardos Imam constructed a pink garden set inside chef Daniel Boulud’s Upper East Side eatery where she sent out a rollicking parade inspired by Joan Mitchell’s abstract floral paintings.
The Look: Alice in Wonderland at an enchanted tea party with an overdose of Mad Hatter.
Quote of Note: “This collection was inspired by two powerful forces: nature and art. I embarked on a journey of self-reflection to explore what truly excites me and triggers my creativity,” said Nardos Imam.
Standout Pieces: A kelly green taffeta halter-neck trapeze dress; harlequin pattern satin bubble mini; blue plaid portrait-neck gown with high-low hem and flared sleeves; floral embroidered duck-tail blazer and matching skirt with rear-kick; painted tulip a-line gown with ruched sweet-heart bodice; floral printed draped bow gown with three-dimensional roses and organza shawl.
The Takeaway: While Imam’s dresses may be every little girl’s fantasy, they oftentimes read too costume for real-world wearing. Amid the juvenile-looking colors and surface treatments, however, are well-finished architectural volumes.
-
Naeem Khan’s Spring 2025 Collection Merges Italian Baroque with a Broadway Classic
Image Credit: Courtesy of Naeem Khan Naeem Khan lit the Angel Orensanz Foundation green for an homage to 19th-century Italian architecture and the Broadway musical “Wicked,” debuting on the big screen in November.
The look: Sicilian princapessa takes a trip to the Emerald city.
Quote of Note: “My collaboration with Universal Pictures for the movie “Wicked” inspired the finale. It’s about darkness, but fun and still glamorous,” said Khan. The other thing you see is my travels to Italy. I’ve taken parts from the different churches I visited and used that in Baroque forms.”
Standout Pieces: Tailored men’s jackets, pants and sarong skirts with fringe and soutache ribbons; ivory and pewter caftans with crystal olive branches; a pink Glinda the Good Witch ball gown with a princess-waist and beaded scoop-neck bodice; a tiered column gown in Elphaba green with sequin mesh Renaissance sleeves; fluttering draped maxis with crow-embroidered cage bustiers.
The Takeaway: Khan merged two very diseparate worlds with a better curated eye than he’s shown in the past. Menswear, which he debuted last season, was a strong point, and something he should carry into his women’s collection.
-
Reem Acra Wrapped-Up Spring 2025 in a Neat Little Bow
Image Credit: Courtesy of Reem Acra Reem Acra gave her clients exactly what they’ve been asking for: bows, bows, bows, adding the playful embellishment across a range of her core styles.
The Look: Feminine nonchalance, perfect for attending intimate formal gatherings where dressing up is the gift.
Quote of Note: “This collection is all about summer and it’s about sorbet colors,” said Acra, adding that she incorporated what she is dubbed: “the bow touch.” “So many customers are coming to me saying: “I love the bow. I love the bow.” it’s very girlish I think, but with a free spirit.”
Standout Pieces: Pleated and draped chiffon goddess gowns in Easter-egg colors with crystal and pearl bow-topped gathers; a white bow-accented evening jumpsuit with bust cut-outs; a silvery brocade tea-length column dress with rose motif and matching cape; the “Olivia” (as in Wilde) maxi dress updated with pearl-accented cap sleeves.
The Takeaway: Working an entire collection around a trimming, Acra could have pushed herself more to use it in experimental ways. That said, her thoughtfully-placed adornments on loose silhouettes were a welcome breather in a market crowded by too-much sparkle and frou.