Published
October 14, 2024
As the planet grapples with crises, conflicts, and climate catastrophes, the fashion industry forges ahead, sheltered within its bubble as if nothing had happened. For the coming summer, understated luxury is evolving towards a more sophisticated and elegant silhouette, while maintaining comfort and a certain minimalism.
The Fashion Weeks dedicated to women’s ready-to-wear for Spring/Summer 2025 have ushered in two strong trends that often intermingle: on one hand, the powerful, free, and independent woman, characterized by suits and blazers with pronounced shoulders and wide-legged pants; on the other hand, a more feminine vein that has been showcased on the runways of New York, London, Milan, and Paris from September 6 to October 1, 2024, through fluid, sheer, and lightweight outfits. Occasionally romantic with ruching, ruffles, and flowing ribbons, at other times hyper-sexy, in a boudoir spirit often infused with humor.
1. Working girl
Designers are banking on very masculine tailoring for next summer with flannel or heavy canvas suits, wide-legged trousers, and blazers with broad, marked shoulders, in the purest eighties style celebrating the return of the working girl, seen at Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, and Jil Sander. This autumn wardrobe was often revisited and lightened with new cuts and constructions, as witnessed at Ujoh and Lutz Huelle. The waistcoat from the three-piece suit was worn as a top. At McQueen, it was even adorned with lace. The blazer was stripped of its sleeves or draped, as seen at Uma Wang or Calcaterra. The men’s jacket paired with a simple bodysuit, shorts, or briefs, a trend from previous seasons, continued to prevail, while banker stripes were ubiquitous, including on black chiffon dresses at Khaite.
2. The peplum dress
The waist was accentuated through all sorts of volumes created by ruching, ruffles, fringe, layering, sculptural construction, and above all, peplums that swell at the sides with a retro touch, notably at Bally, Carven, Rokh, Uma Wang, and Sacai. The waist was also highlighted with ornate belts or jeweled belts, or by the puffed hips of harem pants or balloon pants, extra wide.
3. White
The total white look was present in all collections, a sign of purity, but also a symbol of peace. It was found in the classic pantsuit, but also through satin slip dresses, seen at Gabriela Hearst, and simple and embroidered cotton dresses reminiscent of grandmother’s nightgowns, as seen at Miu Miu. Comme des Garçons offered ultra-voluminous white dresses or those resembling a Greek column or whipped cream cakes. Not to mention the vestal robes, and the large sheets that enveloped the body in improvised outfits, thanks to Carven, Coperni, Christian Wijnants, Moschino, Sportmax, Issey Miyake, and Calcaterra.
4. Lingerie and garters
Bodysuits, corsets, slips, and bras. Lingerie was pervasive, with designers revisiting the full array of the boudoir universe, riding on a trend that’s been ongoing for years. Underwear was highlighted under sheer tunics or peeking through garments. Particularly bodysuits and increasingly high-cut swimsuits were displayed openly under low-waisted pants. This season, designers were also having fun with trompe-l’œil on ultra-sexy pieces. For instance, white lace panties/bras were embroidered on black latex outfits at Christian Cowan, or nude female bodies printed on form-fitting dresses at Andreadamo. Garters made a comeback at Dolce & Gabbana and Balenciaga, sketched on flesh-colored form-fitting outfits, or crochet-made at Marco Rambaldi.
5. The bandeau corset
In the sexy vein, the corset was noticeable through countless strapless dresses and even corset suits. Beyond the classic lace-up corset, designers this season preferred the bandeau corset. Christian Wijnants embellished it with golden rhinestones, Miu Miu crafted it from a rolled and cinched cardigan. This bandeau, scarf, or fabric wrapped tightly around the waist and torso. It often layered over a blazer or a draped dress to better accentuate the curves of the silhouette, which were also highlighted through jackets, dresses, and coats with an hourglass shape, reminiscent of the riding coat silhouette.
6. Flowers
The floral theme made a big return and established itself as the major trend for next summer. Be it in tapestry-style prints, embroidery, bead embellishments, or fabric appliqué, flowers were everywhere. Often portrayed in giant format on dresses, tops, and coats, from Giambattista Valli and Simone Rocha’s carnations to Marni or Michael Kors’ black and white roses, to Vivetta’s lilies of the valley.
7. The garment breaks away from the body
The garment, its function, and how it’s used were central to designers’ reflections, leading to widespread experimentation. Influenced by the ubiquitous screens, they envisioned for next summer garments that appear flat, with the impression reinforced by rigid contours, as seen at Acne Studios, Loewe, and Duran Lantink. Alternatively, designers went to the extent of making the garment detach from the body, fixed merely at the front, secured only by the collar or straps or sewn onto a flesh-colored tulle base, as seen at Issey Miyake, Ottolinger, and Sacai.
8. The asymmetrical trouser
In this experimental vein, designers focused on the trouser, notably presenting an asymmetrical version with one leg fully covered and the other leg bare, witnessed at Bottega Veneta, Coperni, and Louis Vuitton. Others multiplied variations around the culottes, seen at Diesel, Federico Cina, and Niccolò Pasqualetti. Generally, asymmetries seized the entire wardrobe, especially skirts and dresses.
9. Surf
Several designers envisioned for 2025 a very sporty summer by the sea. The world of surfing, in particular, inspired many designers with tightly fitting neoprene ensembles, seen at Ottolinger, Casablanca, and Abra, as well as zipped bodysuits, swimsuits, and other leggings resembling surfer wetsuits, seen via Christian Dior, Miu Miu, and The Attico.
10. The polo dress
The little polo with button-down collar and stripes reappeared in the summer wardrobe, with an alternately preppy and sporty spirit. It was the epitome of relaxed chic. Versace offered it in jacquard, Balenciaga in fine stripes, Lacoste opened it at the sides. The pinnacle for the upcoming summer will be its rendition in a maxi dress. Chanel even presented a pink evening gown version.
Copyright © 2024 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.