It’s been a minute since Edvin Thompson staged a show in the city, so it was a shame that his buzzy return to New York Fashion Week today was clouded by a seriously late start time. If only one could say it took a minute—more like 76. The show started just over an hour and fifteen minutes after its allotted start time. It’s all good. Things happen. Yet it must be said that this is no way to stage a grand return—sometimes second impressions matter more than firsts.
Backstage as folks waited in the lobby of the Freehand hotel—including Lil Nas X and June Ambrose—Thompson was all good vibes: “We’re late, but it’s going to be a great show for sure,” said the designer with a giggle.
Thompson has been busy at work setting the foundation of his label. The designer said in a recent interview with The Business of Fashion that the label is breaking even for the first time as he aims to expand his distribution and supply chain. Lots of exciting developments somewhat hinging on the success of this show. He returned to the runway here after three seasons, but made a point to note that Theophilio didn’t go anywhere. “It feels like I never left,” he said. “People said ‘Theophilio is on hiatus,’ but I’ve been here, I was still working, still shaping my identity.”
That was the theme here. Thompson titled his collection “Shaunie” after his childhood nickname, which he said he received from his mother’s side of the family. This lineup, he said, celebrated the “grander self.” Thompson can cut a flattering silhouette, and here he doubled down on the sparkle and sex appeal that made him one to watch when he broke into the scene just a couple of years ago. He offered colorful silk separates covered in clusters of tonal sequins, menswear styles with scattered peekaboo grommets, and cool graffiti printed slips and micro dresses. “I used to shy away from loud prints and bold colors when I started in fashion because I wasn’t so comfortable with my sexuality in that way,” he said, “I felt that if I was bright I would attract attention to myself, but leaning into the discomfort, into who you are, that’s growth.”
Thompson’s spirit is in the right place. Tonight he had a room full of good will, of people happy to wait to see his work and support him. That kind of community is hard to come by, let alone create this early on. One would have hoped to see more evolution in his output and a little more finesse after his time in stealth mode. This was a show of Theophilio staples, some more effective than others. But as Thompson very well said, discomfort leads to growth. Perhaps next season he’ll dare to draw outside the lines.