What significance does fashion hold amidst the throes of war? From September 1 to September 4, Ukrainian Fashion Week (UFW) sought to answer this question against a backdrop of ongoing conflict. Marking its first return to Kyiv since the Russian invasion and the outbreak of war in 2022, the event saw over 50 local designers, many of whom had sought refuge in fashion capitals like London, Paris, Copenhagen, and Berlin, return home.
Their collections, imbued with a spirit of resilience and hope, were showcased through a diverse range of formats, including runway shows, presentations, installations, and performances.
“The voice of Ukraine must be heard,” Iryna Danylevska, founder and CEO of Ukrainian Fashion Week declared. Danylevska has consistently emphasised the importance of the Ukrainian fashion industry and the symbolic significance of physically returning to Kyiv, despite the undeniable and ever-present danger. This reality was starkly highlighted on September 4, the final day of UFW, when the Ukrainian military intercepted a new wave of Russian attacks targeting Kyiv and Lviv.
“The war continues. But we live in this war, we fight for victory. We work for the present and the future,” Danylevska asserted at the opening of Fashion Week. The opening manifesto, which was seen as a joint declaration from over 50 representatives of the Ukrainian fashion industry to the international community, took place on the steps of the Ukrainian House cultural centre.
It was intended to symbolise the unity of Ukrainians, the solidarity of the fashion industry and the commitment to the ideals of freedom and faith in the future of the country. Renowned designers such as Lilia Litkovska, Ksenia Schnaider and Ivan Frolov held signs such as ‘Courageous to create the future’ and ‘We create hope despite the war’.
Ukrainian Fashion Week spotlights culture and diversity
‘Creating hope despite the war’ could easily serve as the overarching theme for the entire Fashion Week. While both organisers and designers remain acutely aware of the ongoing conflict, they choose to portray Ukraine as a nation brimming with strength, creativity, and cultural richness. The war’s impact is not forgotten or glossed over; rather, it is woven into the fabric of the event in poignant ways.
The historic Mystetskyi Arsenal, the main venue for Ukrainian Fashion Week, housed an installation featuring designer creations reflecting on the war, alongside portraits of individuals from the Ukrainian fashion industry who have joined the armed forces and were unable to participate in the event.
While fashion might appear, at first glance, to be a world away from the grim realities of war, a common thread running through many collections was the palpable sense of a heightened cultural awakening within the country. Designers seemed driven by a powerful urge to preserve the history and culture of their homeland, even as another force attempted to dismantle it.
This sentiment was evident in the work of Gunia Project, a brand that has always taken pride in drawing inspiration from traditional ethnic cultures. For their return to Kyiv, the brand chose to present a collection titled ‘Viltse’, a name derived from a wedding tree that once held a central place in Ukrainian wedding ceremonies.
“This collection is a cultural manifesto that emphasises the importance of preserving and reinterpreting national heritage in the face of globalisation,” the brand explained in its collection notes. “It raises the question of how traditional values can be integrated into the present and made relevant for new generations.”
The collection showcased a wealth of intricate details, particularly embroidery, on white and cream garments that ranged from tailored suits and structured pieces to knitwear and flowing dresses and skirts.
Gunia Project was not alone in seeking inspiration from often-overlooked history and folklore. Bobkova, a brand that has called Berlin Fashion Week its temporary home since 2022, drew inspiration for its collection from Mavka, a heroine of Carpathian mythology.
The works of artists such as Mykhailo Kotsiubynsky, Lesya Ukrainka, Oleksandr Oles, and Ivan Franko also served as inspiration for the collection, although the minimalist designs might not immediately reveal these influences.
Nature, another key source of inspiration for the collection, was reflected in subtle motifs, particularly in the colour palette, which ranged from pale shades of algae and duckweed to soft blues and turquoises, as well as cream and beige tones.
The choice of flowing fabrics made from blends of silk, cotton, and polished linen, as well as silk knitwear with a wet effect, and decorative elements like pearls, shells, and stones, further emphasised the collection’s connection to the natural world.
Ukrainian designer Lilia Litkovska, who has been based in Paris since before the war, also heeded the call to return to Kyiv, having previously shown her collections in both the German and French capitals after accepting an invitation from Berlin Fashion Week.
“Kyiv has always been and will always be our home, and we wanted to create this feeling of returning home and bring wishes from the world to Ukrainians and from Ukrainians to the world,” the designer said of her return to the city, where she plans to open a flagship store.
The store, which also served as the presentation venue for the brand, featured an exhibition of 80 photographs showcasing key moments from the brand’s nearly 20-year history, described as “a harvest of achievements and memories before a new exciting page in its history.”
Paris, where the brand will travel next, is still very much on Litkovska’s mind and played a significant role in the brand’s return, which opted for a presentation instead of a show. This presentation, titled ‘zhnyva’, a historical harvest in Ukrainian, merges the past and present through the Kyiv-Paris dichotomy that is part of the brand’s DNA, according to Litkovska.
A key inspiration for the presentation was the Ukrainian underground post-World War II, a hidden network of alternative postage stamps. Building on this historical narrative, Litkovska offered guests an interactive experience of the ‘underground post’, which began earlier this year in Paris.
Visitors from around the world wrote messages of hope and peace for Ukraine, which were brought to Kyiv and displayed as part of an art installation. Throughout the event, attendees contributed letters and notes that were later sent to Paris, reviving the tradition of correspondence.
While Litkovska drew inspiration from past conflicts like World War II, the reality of the ongoing war remained ever-present. Viktor Anisimov, a designer who has made Copenhagen his adopted home in recent seasons, brought the conflict much closer to the runway. He returned to Kyiv with a collection that explored the concept of uniforms, a recurring theme in his work.
A glimmer of Ukrainian hope
At most fashion weeks, a negative review or a disgruntled guest unhappy with their assigned seat at a show might be the biggest concerns. In Ukraine, however, security remains paramount.
Throughout Fashion Week, bunkers were set up at the main event venue, as reported by industry publication Vogue Business, to ensure the safety of participants and attendees. Danylevska emphasised that all external venues chosen by designers also had designated shelters within a 500-metre radius in case of an emergency.
These measures served as a stark reminder of the challenges facing the fashion world in Ukraine, while simultaneously highlighting the industry’s unwavering courage and resilience in the face of adversity.
“Despite missile attacks, air raid sirens, and daily challenges, our commitment to supporting our designers in their creativity and business growth remains unwavering,” Danylevska said, emphasising UFW’s mission to both celebrate Ukrainian creativity and strengthen the domestic fashion market.
With international attendance limited due to travel restrictions and warnings, organisers focused on a domestic audience. Buyers from western Ukraine, including cities like Lviv, Ivano-Frankivsk, and Uzhhorod, were invited to Kyiv, according to Vogue Business.
These regions have emerged as vital supporters of Ukrainian brands during the war, as many people have relocated from the more volatile eastern parts of the country to the relative safety of the west. Additionally, numerous companies, manufacturers, and brands have moved their operations westward, further bolstering support for local fashion businesses.
“Ukrainian designers continue to create, preserve jobs, and speak to the world about Ukraine in the language of creativity, willpower, and indomitability,” Olena Zelenska, the First Lady of Ukraine, said in a promotional video ahead of the event. “This can only mean one thing: the industry is developing, and therefore, life is here and now.”
Zelenska’s words rang true as the Ukrainian fashion industry reunited in its capital city, taking the first, courageous steps toward a future where the local fashion scene can once again thrive. The road ahead may be long, but the return to Kyiv offers a glimmer of hope.
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE, translated with the help of an AI-tool and edited by Veerle Versteeg.