Vionnet’s first capsule before unveiling its new business model

Vionnet initiates its return to the market with a premier capsule collection, preceding its official relaunch slated for summer 2024. Following its liquidation in 2018, the historic French couture house, founded in 1912 by Madeleine Vionnet, was acquired in April 2023 by the luxury conglomerate ChimHaeres Holding, notably owning Borsalino.

Initially, the group aims to highlight the history of this legendary house and particularly the persona of its founder, renowned for her draping techniques and bold creations, a pioneer in her approach to fluid and minimalist fashion, as well as an early advocate for environmental and social causes.

In preparation for the brand’s official revival, set to occur in a few months through a project deemed “disruptive,” the company has conceptualized three limited-edition mini-collections, each comprising around 20 pieces, spanning ready-to-wear and accessories. These will be exclusively available on the vionnet.com website for a limited time. The first collection will be released on February 10 on the site, which will be enriched with content about Madeleine Vionnet, followed by the second at the end of March-early April, and the third at the end of June-early July.

“These capsules have been conceived as a tribute to Madeleine Vionnet, to recall who she was, her values, her vision, and why she has never been more contemporary than today. The aim is to reintroduce her codes, her philosophy, to enhance her visibility and desirability. It is primarily a communication campaign to convey a message before embarking on the full-fledged relaunch of the brand,” explained Philippe Camperio, president of Vionnet, co-founder, and CEO of ChimHaeres Investment.

A minimalist design for the first capsule

The inaugural collection titled ‘Vivid Memories of the Future’ centers around draping, geometric shapes, gradient effects, knots, fringes, and graphic motifs by the Italian artist Thayaht, whose real name is Ernesto Michahelles, entrusted by the designer with the creation of her logo in 1919, the first of its kind for a couture house. This capsule was crafted by three independent designers under the guidance of Antonella di Pietro, who is part of the group’s management.

It features basic pieces with a minimalist design, along with some jewelry embellished with sparkling stones. The emphasis is on luminosity with shorts, a bralette, a straight skirt, and a mini-dress crafted from black tulle adorned with shimmering silver sequins, as well as asymmetrical silver lurex tops and short dresses with draped sleeves. Knitwear is also present through mohair tops knotted at the waist and ample cardigans and vest-dresses displaying geometric patterns. Prices range from 800 to 1,500 euros for the pieces.

The next two mini-collections will exalt other codes and key elements of Madeleine Vionnet’s universe. “It’s not just about fashion; it’s a mindset that we want to showcase. These first three capsules will lead us to introduce our next chapter through what we have termed ‘the Vionnet Way,’ which aims to be a new approach to fashion, innovative, inclusive, and shared through technology,” added Camperio.

The next step, which should mark the true relaunch of the house, has indeed been designed to be accompanied by AI support. Vionnet will acquire its own generative artificial intelligence, currently under construction with the support of a leading technological company in the sector. It will be fueled not only by the archives and creations of the historic house but also by content from different communities spanning various domains (artistic, musical, etc.) and sharing the same values as Madeleine Vionnet. This AI will enable the brand to generate, through interaction with its audience, innovative collections, each time under the supervision of a curator, who may not necessarily be a designer.

The collections will be delivered at regular intervals throughout the year, outside the traditional fashion schedules, through limited-time and volume editions. Initially, they will be available on the brand’s website, then through exclusive ephemeral spaces. Ultimately, the house plans to establish itself in Paris.