SHANGHAI – With the runways ruled by the Miu Miu aesthetic and New Chinese style, the local fashion market lacked a certain disruptive impetus that could point to future growth opportunities.
“There’s less newness and risk-taking this season, which reflects a more cautious economic environment,” said Jillian Xin, buying director at Labelhood.
“It’s rare to find a successful combination of authentic aesthetic and out-of-the-box creativity,” said LMDS’ Eric Young.
“This season’s Shanghai Fashion Week left me with the impression that foot traffic has noticeably decreased,” added Will Zhang of SND in Chongqing. “Some familiar brands have gradually faded from the runway scene.”
According to the local showroom Showroom Shanghai, the “local designer market” has already shrunk to 2019 levels.
“The reality most certainly felt brutal and cold. However, we are seeing 35 percent of the visitors newly registered buyers,” said Showroom Shanghai in a statement. “We worked with the Hong Kong Trade Development Council to bring in new talent, to our surprise, over 200 retailers showed interest in buying these new brands; this means that the market is hungry for a new look.”
Beyond Miu Miu-esque preppy looks and flouncy oriental gowns, sportswear was another theme that stood out this season.
“Following on from Zhang Qinwen’s recent success at the Paris Olympics, there were a lot of tennis and sport inspired pieces – pleated dresses at Assignments, preppy knits at Shushu/tong and varsity tees at Märchen,” added Xin.
A look from Assignment’s spring 2025 collection.
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Here, a roundup of buyers’ reactions to the spring 2025 edition of Shanghai Fashion Week.
Jillian Xin, buying director at Labelhood, Shanghai
Favorite collection: I really liked WMWM, she’s traditionally stronger at autumn-winter collections but I loved her nautical inspired tops and billowy spring jackets this season. Ruohan was also a highlight – there is a real confidence to her collections now. My other favorites were Ya Yi and Kinyan Lam.
Best show formats: I love that Re Shui did a presentation on his own terms – repurposing a room at LAB Showroom, designing and producing the entire set, using “models” from his own team and family. It was intimate and authentic, which made it memorable.
Re Shui’s presentation during Shanghai Fashion Week.
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Edison Chen’s CLOT set in a pop up Cha Chaan Teng was very fun and theatrical, lifting moods immediately.
Ya Yi’s debut at Shanghai Fashion Week was also eagerly anticipated by our team and she didn’t disappoint with a beautifully choreographed show.
Top Trends: Following on from Zhang Qinwen’s recent success at the Paris Olympics, there were a lot of tennis and sport inspired pieces – pleated dresses at Assignments, preppy knits at Shushu/tong and varsity tees at Märchen.
Must-have item: Karmuel Young’s very clever leather vest which zips up to become a shoulder bag. Or anything by Reshui.
New Talent: Joyce Bao was the standout new talent. Despite a small collection and having graduated from Central Saint Martins only this year, her ethereal pieces and bold take on femininity caught our eye.
Impression of the week: There’s less newness and risk taking which reflects a more cautious economic environment. It’s a really tough time for young designers.
Will Zhang, founder of SND, Chongqing
Favorite collection: This season’s Märchen collection brought a delightful surprise. The 25SS collection, inspired by the poster works of French graphic designer Savignac, breaks away from the stereotypical girlishness. While keeping the signature fairy-like dresses, it introduced a variety of retro sporty spring and summer pieces. The colors are vibrant and playful, with a whimsical mix of everyday elements like fruits, animals, and vehicles, yet all blend together harmoniously. Plaids, ruffles, and prints are active design elements running through the entire collection, adding excitement and flair.
Best Show Formats: Oude Waag maintained its consistent aesthetic, presenting artistic beauty to the fullest. Through music and fashion, the spring 2025 collection’s theme was deeply felt. The show, presented in the form of a farewell ceremony, brought a sense of peace and reflection to Shanghai Fashion Week this season.
Top Trends: Many designer brands have surprised with highlights that emphasize craftsmanship in their new collections. For example, embroidery, prints, and bohemian-style beading have been prominent. Some standout brands have fully embraced this new style in their styling approach, breaking away from the repetitive trends that once dominated the market.
Must-Have Item: Oude Waag’s runway featured some standout pieces this season: asymmetrical washed velvet silhouette jackets paired with skirts, spliced slip dresses, patchwork silk knit cardigans, and ruched silk georgette blouses with drawstrings. These pieces perfectly balance the brand’s distinct style with practicality for everyday wear.
New Talent: Lamrons. Unlike minimalist brands, Lamrons excels at simplifying complexity. The brand’s designs strike the perfect balance, with thoughtful tailoring and small details that convey its unique aesthetic. At the same time, Lamrons showcases fresh innovation, standing out in the current market trends.
Impression of the Week: This season’s Shanghai Fashion Week left me with the impression that foot traffic has noticeably decreased. While the final order tally for the showrooms remains uncertain, it was clear during the buying schedule that compared to pre-pandemic times, there were significantly fewer buyers visiting. As more new brands appear on the fashion week schedule, it’s also clear that some familiar brands have gradually faded from the runway scene.
Eric Young, founder of LMDS, Shanghai
Favorite collection: Karmuel Young has found his voice: this collection was simple, fresh and relaxing. At the same time, the balance between design and wearability was good.
Shanghai Fashion Week may be full of “creativity”, but it’s rare to find a successful combination of true aesthetics and out-of-the-box creativity. Designer Gao Xiang of Penultimate has always stayed true to her own thoughts and ideas and expressed them well.
A look from Penultimate’s spring 2025 collection.
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Best show formats: Samuel Gui Yang, he almost had the best casting, and blended it perfectly with the mood that the designer wanted to convey through his new collection. Of course, the location of the show was quite special and the whole process was reminiscent of many movie scenes.
There’s no better way to keep up with the Parisian fashion than to see what the duo behind Jacques Wei are doing. Launching the new collection in the brand’s new office, the soft and gorgeous pieces felt chic against the backdrop of the office space’s angular outlines.
Top trends: All the trending elements people saw in Paris, you could find it in Shanghai. There’s only one thing that is locally born and bred, and has legs. It’s the New Chinese Style.
Must-have item: Karmuel Young’s leather jacket, Penultimate’s crazy shirts, Samuel Gui Yang’s dresses, Jacques Wei’s crafty pieces.
New Talent: None, but I didn’t get to see that many showrooms and shows, so I might be biased.
Impression of the week: A lot of Miu Miu impressions and derivatives in every showroom and lots of runways.
Michael Mok, buyer at A Society, Singapore
Favorite collection: Mark Gong
Best show formats: The outdoor vibe of Samuel Gui Yang
Top Trends: Young femininity – a lot of cute dresses and embroidery pieces.
Must-have item: Yvmin X Shushu/tong accessories.
New Talent: Zhong Zixin
Impression of the week: Buyers and designers are conservative this season. But happy to see the new talents are still focusing on their identities.
Benny Zhu, founder of Element, Shanghai
Best show formats: Short Sentence’s spring 2025 collection “Almost Normal” delivered a placebo-like message full of positivity through bright colors, comfortable materials and natural elements.
Top trends: Genderless fashion and sportswear.
Must-have item: Leather jackets from Garcon By Garcon.
New talent: A lot of new young talents at the Adidas “Earn Your Stripes” exhibition.
Impression of the week: I was excited to see so many talented Japanese designers in town; I was happy to discover the label Suzusan. I’m looking forward to seeing more cooperation between the Japanese and Chinese fashion industry.
Marvin Revells, buyer for 3NY, New York
Favorite collection: Raxxy
Best show formats: Staffonly
Top trends: The amount of polo styles and sets I saw from different collections.
Must-have item: Guernika from Japan – hand painted bag and garments.
New talent: Ode To Yue
Impression of the week: Overall impression of the week for me was another great experience as a buyer to find new talent. Overall the event was well organized and inspiring.
Bai Ru, buyer for Nubian, Tokyo
Favorite collection: Mark Gong
Best show formats: Mark Gong’s runway show.
Top trends: The Court Art Style Trend
Must-have item: The 3D Handmade Rose Jacket by Mark Gong
Impression of the week: Mark Gong’s use of silk and lace as design elements. It combines both Eastern and Western tailoring, emphasizing the beauty of feminine lines. The visual effect is stunning in both dynamic and static states.