Two fictional characters informed the gear worn by cyclists from the French National Team. Their mask-like headwear nods to an antihero of crime fiction dreamed up by writers Marcel Allain and Pierre Souvestre: Fantômas. “He’s clearly a thief, but a very chic thief,” jokes Samson. The second silk oil-black bodysuits reference the get-up of silent film actress Musidora (aka Jeanne Roques) who is especially known for playing the vampish Irma Vep in Les Vampires.
Fantomas, poster, French poster, Marcel Herrand, 1947. (Photo by LMPC via Getty Images)LMPC/Getty Images
(Eingeschränkte Rechte für bestimmte redaktionelle Kunden in Deutschland. Limited rights for specific editorial clients in Germany.) Movie posters and movie announcements Poster advertising for the French film ‘Les Vampires’; director and screenwriter: Louis Feuillade – 1915/16 Vintage property of ullstein bild (Photo by ullstein bild/ullstein bild via Getty Images)ullstein bild Dtl./Getty Images
1930s — Track and Field
Cristóbal Balenciaga moved his couture house in 1937, and following looks by the current creative director, Demna, are recreations, which he oversaw or two looks lost to time. Using photographs, a sketch and a newspaper clipping, a Velasquez-inspired fringed dress from fall 1939 and a graphic stunner in black and white slipper satin from fall 1940 were resurrected. Read more here.
Balenciaga by Demna
Balenciaga, fall 1940 couture dress remake
Balenciaga, fall 1939 couture dress remake
A series of looks in black and white evoke old Hollywood glamour.
Mad for Madeleine Vionnet
Madeleine Vionnet is credited with mastering the bias cutting technique defined, in part, the long sensuous silhouette of the ’30s. Her kind of glamour was inimitable and based on technique. Maison Margiela’s couture 2024 look nods to Vionnet.
Homage à Dietrich
Samson relates that “in the ’30s Marlene Dietrich was forbidden to enter Paris by the mayor because she wore pants.”
Snazzy Schiaparelli
The House of Schiaparelli moved to the Place Vendôme in 1935. The Italian-born designer , noted for her penchant for waist-up dressing and her witty collaborations with the Surrealists. This included, in 1938, a skeleton dress made together with Salvador Dalí, and which has been reinterpreted by the current creative director, Daniel Roseberry. Read more about Schiaparelli.
FKA twigs Causes a Flap in Alexandre Vauthier
“Wearing head-to-toe Alexandre Vauthier, she brought a modern-day flapper energy to the Les Années Folles section of the evening, posing and vamping around the Colonne Vendôme in the maison’s vertiginous platforms.” —Hayley Maitland Read more here.
Maluma Out Gatsbys Gatsby in Thom Browne
The Mad Dash: Course de garçons de café
“I was wondering how we could connect the back and field with fashion and Paris, and I remember that in every city in France since the beginning of 20th century, there is a run, Course des cafés. Each café brings one waiter with a tray, some glasses, water and wine, and the waiters compete by speed walking in the streets. It was just relaunched it in Paris two months ago.” —Alexandre Samson, fashion curator
1940s — Aquatics
This section of the show was “very south of France inspired,” said Samson. The stripes “are emblematic of the French beach houses and it is also the 10 year anniversary of a collection from Jacquemus called Les Parasols de Marseille. These parasols always have big stripes, so we asked him if we could give this a modern take [and consider] the influence with the bikini.”
“Right after the war in 1946, just before the New Look, people really struggled, of course, but wanted some lightness,” says Samson. “The bikini was designed in 1946 by two designers, Jacques Heim and Louis Réard.” Synchronized swimming and the movies of Esther Williams were also touchpoints.