“I know it’s very revolutionary to do flowers for spring,” said designer Danial Aitouganov before editors had even settled in front of Zomer’s floral-filled show board.
With that nipped in the bud, he and cofounder Imruh Asha said there was no grand design behind their label’s spring collection.
Flowers provided them with a place to start experimenting beyond the colorful signature they’ve built so far. One direction brought very reasonable neutral tones. Another saw them explore how different effects could be teased out of seemingly impossible starting materials.
Exhibit A: a plastic-looking floral skirt, which turned out to be a printed leather developed through their collaboration with Ecco Leather.
Overall, Zomer’s gently sculptural clothing came with removable bows, drawstring openings and detachable panels that zhuzhed up smart cuts. The duo also debuted a collaboration with Finnish heritage footwear brand Karhu, inspired by a bowling shoe.
But Aitouganov and Asha also poked fun at their concept. There was the ultimate floral look — a model wearing a composition by Parisian florist Debeaulieu.
Elsewhere, it was a humungous poppy that turned out to be a mechanical sculpture by London-based design duo Isabel + Helen held by a model wearing a sleeveless knit top paired with double-layer harem pants and a wide belt.
Putting the fun in functional has fertile ground for Zomer since it launched three seasons ago. Now with half a dozen retailers, Aitouganov said they have recently moved into a much larger studio that fits both a team of seven and Asha’s creative studio.
This latest crop should see them continue to bloom.
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