Sofía Arribas, founder of Sophie et Voilà, on celebrating craftsmanship and expanding horizons

Founded in 2008 by Sofía Arribas, Sophie et Voilà has emerged as a pivotal design house within the national landscape. Anchored firmly in the bridal sector, the Bilbao-based label ventured into ready-to-wear in 2023, looking to propel growth by penetrating international markets, such as Asia and the United States, and forging strategic alliances with luxury sector stalwarts like Moda Operandi. Led by Saioa Goitia, with whom Arribas shares 75% ownership (the remaining 25% held by private investors), the company prides itself on its commitment to responsible production through local workshops. Amidst its participation in the Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, where it clinched the award for best bridal collection, FashionNetwork.com sat down with its creative director and founder, Sofia Arribas.

FashionNetwork.com: How would you describe your brand’s latest showcase at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week?

Sofía Arribas: In keeping with previous shows, this one drew on architecture, art, and timeless beauty, venturing into slightly varied lines. We didn’t claim innovation by suggesting inspiration from a trip to Marrakech, as that would be inaccurate. Instead, there’s a continuous narrative connecting each collection to the next, creating a cohesive journey from our first to our most recent showcase. At a design level, achieving recognition—where someone sees a dress and instantly identifies it as Sophie et Voilà—is a testament to our brand’s distinct identity.

FNW: What does continuing to participate in Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week mean for your brand?

S.A.: It serves as a global showcase. While social media offers widespread exposure, being here physically ensures significant visibility and facilitates personal connections with the audience.

FNW: What has been your experience at this year’s fair?

S.A.: So far, it’s been positive. The fair is where we establish physical connections, beyond the year-round digital interactions with clients. This is where they see us, where we unveil new collections, and can engage beyond the routine. This year, we’ve welcomed many new clients who were familiar with the brand but hadn’t fully engaged until now.

FNW: From which markets have these new clients come?

S.A.: We’ve seen a diverse range. Clients from Japan, Korea, China, the United States, Denmark, Belgium, and Spain, among others. Particularly, there has been a strong turnout from Asia—a market we’re actively cultivating, along with the United States, where we aim to continue expanding our footprint.

FNW: How does your association with Moda Operandi benefit the brand?

S.A.: This isn’t the first time we’ve worked with Moda Operandi. We began our collaboration on bridal dresses before the pandemic, which was very successful. Being recognized and featured by Moda Operandi not only acts as a stamp of quality for those unfamiliar with us but also reintroduces us in the ready-to-wear sector through another, predominantly online, showcase.

FNW: How significant is the online channel to your company’s revenue?

S.A.: Online sales for bridal wear are still finding their footing. Our primary online sales come from the United States. In Europe, brides prefer to purchase their gowns with personalized advice and fittings, a sentiment less prevalent in the U.S., where brides are more inclined to make online purchases.

FNW: How do you perceive today’s brides?

S.A.: There is a marked difference between Asian, American, European, and Spanish brides—they all have unique expectations and preferences. Our collections aim to cater to each demographic. For American and Asian brides, we include strapless designs; for European and Spanish clients, convertible dresses that offer versatility in style and coverage.

FNW: Have you had to adjust your pricing strategy due to inflation?

S.A.: Only minimally. While transportation costs have increased, affecting our new collection, we have managed to maintain our pricing within the same range as before.

FNW: What role does sustainability play in your collections?

S.A.: We emphasize the importance of using fabrics with traceable origins and compositions. It’s equally crucial that these materials are not sourced from the other side of the world. We avoid mass production, ensuring all our garments are crafted in Bilbao, maintaining our commitment to ‘Made in Spain’ standards. For us, sustainability means avoiding overproduction and ensuring dignified working conditions for our craftspeople.

FNW: How many people does your brand employ?

S.A.: Currently, we are nine, along with varying numbers of workshop employees depending on the season.

FNW: Sophie et Voilà is known for being a woman-led company. How important is this, and how can the craft be preserved?

S.A.: Preserving the craft is challenging because today, nobody wants to sew; everyone wants to be a designer and win awards. Historically, sewing has been a predominantly female craft, rich with female ingenuity. Ultimately, we are a company of women, which was not by design but rather how it naturally developed. We understand each other well, with no issues around reconciliation or scheduling. We are all mothers, and those who aren’t currently expecting have been recently, fostering a strong sense of empathy within our team. Just as we adapt each dress for our brides, we adapt our workplace to our employees.

FNW: What do clients most value about your brand?

S.A.: Clients are initially drawn to our designs for their unique balance of being sufficiently distinct without being peculiar. They seek neither overly sophisticated nor overly similar styles but rather a perfect blend of modernity and tradition.

FNW: What is your main market in terms of revenue?

S.A.: Spain represents just 25% of our revenue, with Asia—particularly Korea, Japan, and China—and the United States following.

FNW: What has been your strategy for entering these markets?

S.A.: It has been a gradual process. At our first fair, our booth was merely a closet-sized space. Yet, people stopped by, drawn by something different. Now, in our ninth year, the scenario has evolved considerably.

FNW: How did the pandemic impact your brand?

S.A.: It was extremely challenging, as it was for everyone. However, as one market closed, another opened, and we shifted our focus accordingly, learning to harness online sales. We not only survived but also achieved a record sales year following the pandemic.

FNW: Looking ahead, do you plan to open up more of the brand’s capital?

S.A.: Currently, we are in a phase of launching our ready-to-wear line, amidst the bridal collection and the fair, leaving many options open without committing to any specific plans just yet.

FNW: What is the current status of your ready-to-wear line?

S.A.: We are in the process of designing our third collection, set to debut at fairs in June. We plan to showcase it in Paris and are also eyeing New York.

FNW: What balance do you seek between the bridal and ready-to-wear segments?

S.A.: We aspire for Sophie et Voilà to be perceived as a unified brand. Like major brands that have ventured into bridal while retaining their core essence, we do not envision a strict 50/50 split. We aim for an organic integration of both segments. Post-pandemic, our strategy is to remain flexible and responsive to how things evolve.

FNW: What significance does winning an award at the Barcelona Bridal & Fashion Awards hold for your brand?

S.A.: Personally, the greatest reward is when someone walks through our door and chooses us to create their dream dress for the most important day of their life. I am honored time and again by such trust. While receiving an award is excellent for media exposure and recognition, the daily trust and confidence bestowed by our clients are the true accolades.