Opinion | From The Wizard of Oz to Taylor Swift, graphic T-shirts have been around a while and can pack a political or social punch – but only sometimes

Much has been (glitter-gel-) penned about Taylor Swift’s wardrobe over her various album eras, and about her language, including her changing accent, and her lyrics’ symbolism and imagery. There is also a lot going on where fashion and language intersect.

“NOT A LOT GOING ON AT THE MOMENT” was the language conveyed on Swift’s sequinned top worn in her “22” music video’s opening scene, the work of British-based designer Ashish Gupta.

In her current Eras tour performance of “22”, she updates that message, her T-shirt now declaring: “A LOT GOING ON AT THE MOMENT”. Other nights’ T-shirts read “WHO’S TAYLOR SWIFT ANYWAY? EW.” and “WE ARE NEVER GETTING BACK TOGETHER LIKE EVER”.

Keywords “A LOT”, “EW”, “NEVER” and “EVER” were bolded in red. Swifties had been hoping that these red letters meant another of her Easter eggs – hidden messages in computer games, software, film, music – which would, anagram-like, eventually spell out her next production plans.

One of the T-shirts Swift wore read “WHO’S TAYLOR SWIFT ANYWAY? EW”.

Such graphic T-shirts have, of course, been around for a while.

Their very first appearance was not in the fashion world, but in the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz, where three minions stuffing the scarecrow wore bright green T-shirts with the word “OZ” in white, and in the 1940s showcasing United States military branch logos.

Andrew Ridgeley and George Michael (left) of the pop group Wham!, arriving at London in 1984. George Michael is wearing a Choose Life T-shirt. Photo: Getty Images

T-shirts have long been more than just a fabric covering.

Becoming established as a staple in the 1960s, the once-plain white top, now adorned with typography, quotes or witty phrases, developed into a canvas, a medium for political, social and cultural statements.

Text-based or graphic T-shirts have prominent forebears. British designer Katharine Hamnett’s 1980s black block letters spelled out political slogans across oversized white T-shirts. Her first, “CHOOSE LIFE”, worn by Wham!’s George Michael, was inspired by a Buddhist exhibit, a comment against war, destruction and death.
Art from the Jenny Holzer exhibition at Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen in 2023 in Dusseldorf, Germany. Photo: Getty Images

American neo-conceptual artist Jenny Holzer’s word art, primarily in public urban landscapes, later featured on merchandise, including T-shirts.

Her pithy statements and longer discourse are always capitalised, with certain parts italicised, to “show some sense of urgency and to speak a bit loudly”. Certainly, as Hamnett believed: “If you want to get the message out there, you should print it in giant letters on a T-shirt.”

Such text-based fashion has attracted the attention of language researchers: in recent years, the study of linguistic landscapes has expanded beyond the urban landscape to explore other “scapes” such as smells, tattoos and clothing, examining “words we wear”, “banal cosmopolitanism” and “wearable ideologies”.

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